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Chicken Tabaka in a Skillet Under a Press
Instructions
I prepare the broiler chicken carcass (1200 g) – the basis of the dish. The IDEAL weight for the carcass is 400–600 g; in our example it is a little larger. If the carcass is big, cut it into 2 pieces before frying. I clean the bird – remove any remaining feathers with tweezers, wash it thoroughly under cold running water and pat it completely dry with a paper towel. A dry carcass browns better during frying.
A CRITICAL STEP for a flat shape: I cut the chicken carcass LENGTHWAYS with a sharp knife and open it out "like a book". You can cut either along the BELLY (the simpler way) or along the BACK (the classic Georgian way). I wash out the insides thoroughly and remove everything unnecessary.
Be sure to CUT OUT the fat gland at the tail – it gives an unpleasant, musty aftertaste. Also remove the third, smallest part of each wing (it would burn during frying and would not cook through inside).
Chicken Tabaka is cooked in a skillet, and for the carcass to sit snugly against the bottom it needs to be given a FLAT SHAPE. I cover the carcass with plastic wrap or a large polythene bag – so that splashes from the mallet do not scatter around the kitchen. I gently beat the carcass with a special kitchen mallet for 5–7 minutes until flat, paying particular attention to the breast and the legs.
I prepare the aromatic spice marinade – the "secret" of Georgian chicken Tabaka. In a separate bowl I mix salt (1 ½ tsp, or to taste), khmeli suneli (2 tsp – the essential Georgian blend), dried garlic (½ tsp), ground paprika (1 heaped tsp), ground chilli pepper (⅓ tsp – for heat) and dried basil (1 tsp). I mix it thoroughly. I add vegetable oil (2 tbsp) and stir again to a paste-like consistency.
Using a silicone basting brush I SPREAD the aromatic spice mixture over the whole chicken carcass – top, bottom, sides and inside (where the belly cavity was). The bird must be coated with spices on ALL sides – no part should be left "bland".
I transfer the marinated carcass to a container with a lid, or cover a bowl tightly with plastic wrap. I set it aside for ONE AND A HALF HOURS (90 minutes) at room temperature. During this time the spices penetrate deep into the meat and the chicken takes on its characteristic Georgian aroma.
After 1.5 hours I heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet (28–30 cm in diameter, ideally cast iron) over medium heat for 3–5 minutes. A cast-iron skillet spreads the heat evenly – the "secret" of an even crust on the chicken. A thin aluminium skillet would give "scorched patches".
I pour vegetable oil (3 tbsp) into the hot skillet and add a little clarified butter (1 tbsp) – the ghee gives the characteristic Caucasian "caramel" aroma and a beautiful golden crust. A mix of oils is a "classic" of Georgian cooking. Then I reduce the heat to a LEVEL JUST BELOW medium – the chicken will fry for a long time and needs an even medium-low temperature without burning. High heat would scorch the crust on the outside and leave the meat raw inside.
I carefully place the beaten, marinated chicken carcass SKIN-SIDE DOWN in the skillet – the "right" side for a golden crust. If the carcass is large, I cut it into 2 pieces and fry them in turn or together (if they fit). A CRITICAL STEP: on top I cover the chicken with parchment paper and a lid smaller in diameter than the skillet (so the lid presses on the chicken itself). On the lid I then place a WEIGHT to press it down – the "secret" of chicken Tabaka. The weight can be a heavy pot with 2–3 litres of water, a large marble mortar, a cast-iron pot or a special culinary press. Without a weight the carcass lifts away from the skillet and the crust turns out uneven.
I fry the chicken Tabaka in the skillet UNDER THE PRESS on the lowest setting on ONE side for 10–12 minutes. The low temperature stops the crust from charring, and the weight ensures even, "pressed" frying. After 10–12 minutes I carefully remove the weight and the lid, TURN the chicken over to the other side with kitchen tongs or a large spatula, cover again with parchment, the lid and the weight, and cook the other side for the same time – 10–12 minutes under the press. I check that the chicken is done with a fork or a wooden skewer – I pierce the carcass in the THICKEST part (near the thigh) and press gently. CLEAR juice should come out – that means the meat is ready. If pink juice appears, the chicken is not yet done; keep frying for another 5 minutes on each side.
Meanwhile I make a classic Georgian tomato sauce. In a separate bowl I mix ketchup or tomato sauce (150 ml), fresh garlic pressed through a press (3 cloves), dry adjika or ground hot pepper to taste, table vinegar (1 tbsp), and a pinch of salt and sugar to taste. I stir thoroughly. The sauce is ready.The chicken Tabaka in a skillet under a press is ready – the meat has turned out juicy inside and evenly browned outside thanks to the well-chosen set of spices and the technique of frying under a press. On low heat the chicken cooked through inside without charring the crust. I serve it hot on a large platter, sprinkled with freshly chopped coriander and parsley, with the prepared tomato sauce served separately in a sauce boat.
Tips
- 1
Be sure to beat the carcass with a mallet under plastic wrap – the "secret" of the flat shape for even frying.
- 2
Fry on the LOWEST heat with a heavy WEIGHT on top – the "secret" of an even, crisp crust.
- 3
Marinate for 1.5 hours with khmeli suneli spices – the "secret" of the Georgian aroma. I make Caucasian-style pork shashlik on a similar principle.
- 4
A mix of vegetable oil and clarified butter is a "classic" of Caucasian frying for a golden crust and a "caramel" aroma.
Video
FAQ
What can I use instead of khmeli suneli in the marinade? +
Khmeli suneli is the ESSENTIAL Georgian blend for an authentic chicken Tabaka. If you do not have it, you can put a blend together yourself: 1 tsp ground coriander + 1 tsp dried dill + 1 tsp dried basil + 1 tsp summer savory + ½ tsp red pepper + ½ tsp black pepper + 1 ground bay leaf. Ready-made alternatives: Svan salt (another Georgian blend), utskho-suneli (a more "pungent" analogue), a "Herbes de Provence" mix (which gives a "European" character instead of a Georgian one), or an "Italian herbs" mix (for an Italian variation). Khmeli suneli is a "classic" of Georgian cuisine and cannot be fully replaced by anything else.
Can I bake the chicken in the oven instead of frying it in a skillet? +
Yes, there is an "easy" baking option. After marinating, place the carcass on a baking tray lined with parchment, SKIN-SIDE UP. Cover it with a piece of parchment paper and a smaller baking tray on top – this creates a "press". Bake at 200°C for 35–40 minutes until done. Five minutes before the end, remove the press so a golden crust can form. The advantage of the oven: less oil, no splashes around the kitchen, and you can cook 2 carcasses at once. The drawback: the crust is less "crisp" than in a skillet. For the classic Georgian result, use only a skillet with a press.
How long does the cooked chicken Tabaka keep? +
The cooked chicken keeps in the refrigerator for up to 3 days in a tightly sealed container. On the second day the flavour is even richer – the meat absorbs the spices and juices to the maximum. Before serving, reheat it in the oven at 150°C for 10 minutes under foil (this keeps it juicy) or in the microwave for 3 minutes under a cover. Do not reheat it in a dry skillet without liquid – the meat will turn "dry". You can freeze it in portions for 1 month in airtight containers – before eating, thaw it completely in the refrigerator for 8 hours and warm it through. For a picnic, wrap it in foil and carry it in a cool bag.
What do you serve chicken Tabaka with? +
The classic Georgian serving is with tkemali tomato sauce (a cherry-plum sauce) or with the ketchup-and-garlic sauce made in our recipe. For side dishes – "country-style" or diced fried potatoes, basmati rice with herbs, lobio of red beans, badrijani aubergines with walnuts, or grilled baked vegetables. For starters – Georgian "achik-chuchuk" (tomatoes + onion + basil), pkhali with walnuts, Imeretian khachapuri, or suluguni. For drinks – Georgian dry red wine (Saperavi, Mukuzani), dry white (Tsinandali, Rkatsiteli), or chacha (Georgian grape brandy). For a large feast, serve it with Georgian khinkali and pork shashlik.
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