Veal Liver with Onions in a Skillet

Fresh liver is firm and dark red, with no grey film. The smell is neutral, with no "chemical" note. In size it is large (1 kg and up). Brands such as Miratorg, Velikolukskiy and Zarechye are reliable. Thaw frozen liver in the fridge for 12–24 hours, not in hot water. Be sure to cut off the membranes and veins, as they make it tough. Soak it in cold water or milk for 30–60 minutes to remove the "specific" aftertaste. Don't buy liver that is very dark or has a greenish tint (bile) – it has gone off. Check freshness by piercing it with a knife: the juice is clear (fresh) or cloudy (old). For a "premium" result, go for farm-raised veal. Remove the veins and gristle, or they will "turn up" in the finished dish.

Alternatives include beef liver (denser, needs a longer soak in milk), chicken liver (more tender, cooks faster – 5 minutes instead of 8), turkey liver (like chicken) and rabbit liver (dietary). Pork liver is not the best option (a specific taste). Brands such as Petelinka, Miratorg and Prioskolye are reliable. For a "children's" version, use chicken or turkey liver. For a "premium" version, use veal or farm-raised liver. Don't use "lamb offal" – it won't suit in flavour. Young liver (from a carcass up to 2 kg) is tastier than old. Soak any liver in milk for 30–60 minutes to remove the bitterness and the aftertaste.

In the fridge, in a container with a lid, it keeps for 2 days. Reheat it in the microwave for 1–2 minutes, or in a pan with 1 tbsp of water under a lid for 3–4 minutes. Freezing is not recommended (the texture "falls apart" after thawing). On the second day the dish "rests" and the flavour becomes richer. Don't leave it at room temperature for longer than 2 hours – offal spoils quickly. Liver may become "tougher" after being reheated again, so don't reheat it more than once. Freshly cooked, it is a "star" in the first 30 minutes. For a "packed lunch", keep it with a side in a container. It is ideal to cook "for one sitting" – fresh liver is always tastier.

Sides: mashed potato (the classic), pasta, buckwheat, boiled rice, pearl barley. Steamed vegetables: broccoli, cauliflower, stewed carrot, asparagus. Fresh salads: cucumber + tomato + herbs, Greek salad. With black bread or croutons with garlic. With a glass of dry red wine (Cabernet, Merlot) for a "European" serving. For a "family lunch", with mashed potato and pickled cucumbers. With a cup of herbal tea or fruit mors. Sauces: sour cream with herbs, mushroom, tomato. For a "dietary" version, with steamed vegetables. A versatile everyday lunch. It is especially good with dill on top, which gives a "fresh" note.