Pollock – how to cook deliciously

Pollock belongs to the cod-like order – it's a close relative of cod, haddock and saffron cod. It lives mainly in the cold waters of the northern Pacific Ocean: the Bering Sea, the Sea of Okhotsk, and the coastal waters of Alaska and Kamchatka. An adult fish reaches 30–90 cm in length and lives up to 17 years, but the fishery values 3–4-year-old fish – their flesh is the most tender and juicy.

Young pollock feeds on plankton (protozoa, larvae, molluscs, crustaceans), while adult fish switch to squid and small fish. Despite the enormous volumes caught, the pollock population is stable – the fish breeds very quickly. Its taste and composition are affected by its habitat: fish from the Bering Sea and the Alaska area is considered the cleanest, with a minimum of chemicals and heavy metals.

Pollock is one of the lowest-calorie fish, ideal for a diet-friendly menu. The exact calorie count depends on the cooking method:

• boiled fillet – 72 kcal per 100 g;
• stewed without sauces – 75 kcal per 100 g;
• baked in the oven – 77 kcal per 100 g;
• boiled whole – 79 kcal per 100 g;
• fried without batter – 127 kcal per 100 g;
• fried in batter – 145 kcal per 100 g;
• stewed with vegetables – 50–60 kcal per 100 g;
• under a cheesy topping – 100–120 kcal per 100 g.

Using sour cream, mayonnaise, cream and hard cheese significantly increases the calorie count. For a diet-friendly menu, choose boiling, stewing and baking without rich sauces. Pollock is rich in protein (15–17 g per 100 g), omega-3 fatty acids, iodine, fluorine, selenium, and vitamins A, D and the B group. Its low mercury content compared with tuna and marlin makes pollock safe to eat weekly.

The main rule is to find out the catch region. Fish from the Bering Sea, the area around the Aleutian Islands and Alaska is the cleanest and safest. Avoid anonymous products sold "with no catch area stated".

Fresh fillet: a uniform white colour, with no yellow or dark patches (a sign of fat oxidation and spoilage). A slight pinkish tint near the back is acceptable – that's normal. The flesh should be firm and dense, and shouldn't fall apart under your finger. Fresh fish smells of the sea with a sweetish freshness – no sharp or unpleasant odour.

Frozen fillet: the ice glaze should make up no more than 4% of the product's weight (under the Russian state standard). A thick crust of ice is a con – you're buying water at the price of fish. The glaze should be clear, with no cloudy patches or frost.

Whole carcass: skin without patches or weathered areas, scales lying tightly against the body. Thick scars and cracks on the skin are a sign of repeated thawing (absolutely not allowed!). The gills should be pink or red, and the eyes clear and bulging.

Where not to buy it: markets without certificates, and unknown sellers. Sometimes pangasius or tilapia is sold instead of pollock (cheaper species farmed on waste from the bottom of ponds and often containing harmful substances). Pollock can be recognised by its thin tail and its characteristic lower jaw that juts forward.

Frozen pollock keeps in the freezer at -18°C for up to 6 months. It's critical to avoid temperature swings – they cause moisture loss, and the fish turns dry and greyish. Thaw it only slowly, in the fridge on the bottom shelf, for 8–12 hours (move it from the freezer in the evening and it's ready to clean by morning). Never thaw it at room temperature, in the microwave or under hot water – the fish loses its flavour, texture and nutrients. Dried pollock is kept in parchment paper in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months.

If you've bought fillet there's no problem – you can cook it straight away. A whole carcass needs cleaning. Pollock is covered with small scales that are easily scraped off with a small sharp knife, against the direction in which the scales grow. After cleaning, cut off the head (keep it for fish stock), slit the belly from the anal opening towards the head and carefully remove the entrails. Be especially thorough in removing the dark membrane from the inside of the belly – it makes the finished dish bitter. Cut off the fins with sharp scissors. Remove the bones from the fillet carefully with tweezers, so as not to damage the tender flesh.

The tender white flesh with its flaky texture is a universal base for many dishes:

• Fish cakes – the most popular use for pollock; bread and egg offset its dryness;
• Fried fillet – in batter, flour or breadcrumbs, quickly, 5–7 minutes on each side;
• Stewed pollock – with vegetables and a sour-cream or tomato sauce, to counter the dryness;
• Baked under a cheesy topping – a festive option with tomatoes, onion and cheese;
• Surimi (crab sticks) – an industrial product you can recreate at home from fillet and starch;
• Fish fingers and nuggets – a breaded option for children;
• Minced fish – a base for dumplings, fish balls and fillings;
• Dried and cured pollock – a snack to go with beer;
• Liver and roe – delicacies that are added to salads and eaten with bread and butter;
• Canned fish – an industrial product for sandwiches and salads.

The main cooking rule is not to keep it on the heat too long. Check doneness with a toothpick or fork: it should go in and out of the flesh easily. Over-frying destroys the omega-3 fatty acids and makes the fish "rubbery". My favourite everyday standby is a simple recipe for pollock fish cakes in the oven.