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How to Properly Cook Porcini Mushrooms
Instructions
I clean the fresh porcini of forest debris, soil, pine needles and grass. I carefully cut away any wormy or spoiled parts with a knife – woodland mushrooms are often attacked by insect larvae. When cut, the stem should be white and firm, with no worm holes or dark spots.
I rinse the mushrooms quickly in cold water (without leaving them to soak for long, as they would absorb excess moisture). I then soak the cleaned mushrooms for 30 minutes in cold salted water – 1 tablespoon of salt per litre of water. Soaking draws out any remaining worms and extra debris from the folds.
I cut the mushrooms into medium-sized pieces of 2–3 cm. Cut large ones small – they shrink during frying; cut small ones large – they stay big. A medium size gives the right texture in the finished dish. I cut the caps and stems separately – they have a different density and need different cooking times.
To BOIL: I cover the mushrooms with cold water in a heavy-bottomed pot, bring to the boil, then lower the heat. I boil them for 40 minutes over medium heat, always skimming off the foam with a slotted spoon. Foam is typical of mushrooms and should be removed – without this the broth will be cloudy and less aromatic.
To FRY: I heat a frying pan with vegetable oil over high heat for 1–2 minutes. I add the cut mushrooms and fry them for 10–15 minutes until all the released moisture has evaporated. Without evaporating the juices, the mushrooms turn out "boiled" rather than fried with their characteristic aroma.
I add finely chopped onion to the fried mushrooms and fry until golden for another 5–7 minutes over medium heat. Onion in fried mushrooms is a Russian classic: it adds a sweetness that contrasts with the umami taste of the mushrooms. Use a ratio of 1 medium onion to 500 g of mushrooms.
I season with salt and pepper to taste and add a knob of butter at the end of cooking. The butter gives a delicate, creamy finish and a lovely sheen to the finished dish. I do not add salt at the start of frying – the mushrooms would release too much juice and "boil" rather than fry. I use freshly ground pepper – it is more aromatic than ready-ground.
The porcini mushrooms are ready! I serve them as a dish in their own right with boiled buckwheat or mashed potatoes, or as a mushroom side to fried meat. To garnish, I sprinkle over freshly chopped dill or parsley – the herbs give a fresh contrast to the warm mushroom dish.
Tips
- 1
Fried porcini go wonderfully with crumbly buckwheat – a Russian classic proven by generations of home cooks.
- 2
Add grated carrot or finely chopped bell pepper for variety – the vegetables will set off the flavour of the mushrooms.
- 3
Thaw frozen porcini naturally before frying and drain off the excess moisture. I cook fried chanterelles on a similar principle.
- 4
Fresh porcini cannot be kept for longer than a day – process them on the day they are picked for maximum aroma and goodness.
FAQ
Do porcini mushrooms need to be boiled before frying? +
Porcini can be fried straight after cleaning, without pre-boiling – they contain no harmful substances that require boiling. However, boiling them for 15–20 minutes gives a "softer" taste and reduces their volume. To be safe (especially if you are unsure of where they were picked), it is better to boil them first for 15 minutes, changing the water after 5–7 minutes. In any case, before frying, be sure to pat the boiled mushrooms dry on paper towels – otherwise they will "boil" in the pan.
How should fresh porcini mushrooms be stored? +
Fresh porcini keep in the fridge for no more than a day – they quickly lose their aroma and begin to darken. Put them in the fridge in a paper bag or an open bowl – do not use plastic, as the mushrooms "suffocate" in it. Ideally, cook them on the day they are picked or bought. For longer storage, boil them straight away for 15–20 minutes and freeze in portions – in the freezer they keep for up to 6 months without loss of quality. You can also dry them – this gives a concentrated, aromatic product.
Can porcini mushrooms be frozen? +
Yes, this is the best way to keep mushrooms for a long time. Clean, rinse and cut the fresh mushrooms, then freeze them on a cutting board (so they do not stick together) and tip them into an airtight bag. You can also boil them first for 15–20 minutes or fry them – such mushrooms are ready to eat straight after thawing. In the freezer, raw mushrooms keep for up to 6 months and boiled ones for up to a year. Before using, do not thaw them completely – put them straight into the pan or pot for a better texture.
How can you tell a porcini from its inedible look-alikes? +
A true porcini (boletus) has a brown, ochre or pale-yellow cap and a firm white stem with a net-like pattern. The flesh always stays white when cut and does not change colour. The main poisonous look-alike is the bitter bolete: its flesh turns pink when cut and the tubular layer under the cap is pink (in a true porcini it is white or yellow). The devil's bolete is also dangerous – its stem is reddish-pink. If in any doubt, do not pick it – there are plenty of porcini in a real forest.
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